Tuesday, August 5, 2008

My Spring, Argentine Autumn

On Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo area

The summer has been a mad blur of work, travel, rain, sun. Buenos Aires in early June was amazing. Filled a notebook with...well, notes. Now remembering:
  • Polo (as opposed to polo-inspired, or -- horror -- R.L. Polo) clothing at La Dolfina
  • Gotan Project remixes wafting through every art-directed Palermo space
  • cafe cortado at La Biela cafe
  • Recelota cemetario
  • La Marshall gay tango on a Wednesday night, huge glasses of whiskey, in a radio taxi speeding through Blade Runner-esque Microcentro at night
  • The smell of Malabia 1555 hotel -- lingering in my clothes after returning home
  • parillas (grills) in Palermo Soho such as Lo de Jesus: Malbec and lomo steak
  • locro stew and empanadas at El Sanjaunino
  • Pacifico and Bullrich galleria style shopping, Etiqueta Negra stores
  • Rossi and Carusso leather
  • San Telmo antiques
  • Seguridad opening every door
  • Huge ice chunks and individual buckets with every drink


Palermo Soho: an amalgam of Old World villas, some still unreconstructed, Romantic squalor, trendy boutiques, Right Now restuarants, tourists and a few old haunts.



Malabia House: formerly a convent coverted from two very narrow "sausage houses". The interior is my perfect aesthetic: spare, Old World, quality... brass number plates, restrained chandeliers, tiny courtyards, polished wood and marble floors, french doors, quality sheets and an overall unfussiness that is lacking from most "Design" hotels.



Etiqueta Negra. The boutique's brown bag is ubiquuitous amongst Recoleta's bourgeoisie. Which is everyone. Made in Argentina quality. The overall feel is distinctly B.A. Swanky, polo, deco.



Recoleta cemetary. Lace draped coffins, webs, a real funeral procession. Nothing short of a goth fantasia, a Romantic's dream. Wandering around all morning murmuring: This life of games, this diligent trust, forever sleep now, go into dust.


Perfection.


June = Argentine autumn. This is what I want to wear next Fall. Extant waxed and quilted Barbour, new Napoli shirts, cashmere quarter zips in new colors (violet? tan?).

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