Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Quilted -- Impermeable

For some time now I have been enamored of quilted, nylon jackets for winter. They are definitely on my 10 Things I Like this season. It started with quilted Belstaff liners, progressed to the Barbour Liddesdale in black and navy, and now continues with my wonderful Italian Brugi jackets.

I found the first one in September 2007 in Rome on the via Giubbonari (“street of the jackets”, when there used to be tailors on the street), right off the Campo de Fiore. At first glance, I might have dismissed this narrow street as a long row of tatty shops. But in fact, there’s a sprinkling of quality, Made In Italy men’s shops, a high end enoteca and a branch of uber-trendy streetwear designer David Meyer. Last September, I went back to the same shop and picked up a navy version of the exact same jacket. The quality and styling of the Bruggi jackets belies the ridiculously low price (literally a fraction of the Barbours I’ve purchased). I love it that in Rome you can actually find high quality shirts, shoes, belts and jewelry at normal, little elegant stores. So much so that buying the Gucci Prada big guns is best saved for back in the States (Saks points, Neiman's discounts). Then there is always Napoli made by hand…

I love wearing these quilted impermeables over a sports jacket, as they provide just the right warmth without bulk. Unless it’s subzero on the streets, do I really need a heavy winter coat? It’s essential for me that the corduroy lined collar be half flipped. In fact, the Brugi’s proportions flow much more stylishly than my Barbour’s. The fastened double vent in the back seals the deal.
Finally, it’s important to wear it with a bit of visual swagger. These quilted jackets are ubiquitous on Italian men of a certain age, and can be a little well, dowdy. I like to wear mine open and with a pair of slim cords or jeans and a silk Bvlgari scarf knotted at the neck. Imagine wearing one with a killer Zegna navy blazer, Napoli button down shirt, silk scarf, tight& light jeans and Timberlands or dessert boots and rectangular aviators. Perfect for having a prosecco and nibbles in the late afternoon.